Five Climbers Presumed Dead on the North Side
May 11, 1997
By Liesl Clark
Five people who were climbing Everest from the north (Tibetan) side of the mountain are
missing and presumed dead. They were making their attempt on the summit on the 8th of
May. New Zealand expedition leader Guy Cotter has been in
touch with expedition leader Russell Bryce from Chamonix who is on the
north side on a radio with the same frequency as Guy's. Russell reports
that as many as 10 climbers were making a summit attempt on May 8th; some
(and possibly all) climbers reached the summit and came down while others
have still not returned.
Reports have confirmed that one Asian Trekking
Sherpa by the name of Mingma fell to his death down the Great Couloir, a
4,000-foot 40-degree snow gully that bisects the rock bands on the north
face of Everest. Three Kazakh climbers are also presumed dead after their
attempt to climb from the north side of Everest over to the south side
where they planned to then traverse Lhotse on the southern (Nepalese)
side. This is an expedition that Anatoli Boukreev (who has already
summited Everest on the southern side with the Indonesians) has now
joined on the Tibetan side. One of the Kazakh climbers that has died
was seen collapsed just beyond the high camp on the north side.
The last climber presumed dead is an Austrian who has been missing since
May 8. He was last seen going up to the summit on the north side at 3:00
p.m. without bottled oxygen. This is considered a very late approach to
the summit, given that he was climbing without the aid of supplemental
oxygen which would slow him down even further. He would have spent the
night at 27,500 feet without oxygen the night before leaving for the
summit. There is a small hope that he may have come down the south
side and could have bivouacked up high. No tents are set up at Camp
IV, so it is unlikely he would have survived this long in the estimated
100 knot winds on Everest's upper slopes.